Clos de Tart Grand Cru, Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France · France
2004 Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Mommessin's 2004 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a gracefully evolved Morey-Saint-Denis monopole - past its projected peak in 2026, but offering genuine Grand Cru complexity for those who move soon.
- Varietal
- Pinot Noir
- Vintage
- 2004
Drinking Window
In 2026: MaturePast peak but still drinking well through 2030.
Right now: In 2026, the 2004 Mommessin Clos de Tart is past its projected peak window of 2018-2025 and moving toward its eventual hard decline in 2030. At twenty-two years from harvest, the wine is in mature drinking territory: primary fruit has given way almost entirely to tertiary development - forest floor, dried cherry, dried rose petal, tobacco - and the bright acidity of the cooler 2004 vintage continues to keep the wine alive and structured. The leaner frame and brisk acid noted at release have proven beneficial in this mature phase, providing definition where a richer vintage might have collapsed. Those with bottles should drink over the next two to three years to catch the wine at its most complex before it begins to simplify.
Tasting Note
A luminous, translucent garnet with a brick-orange rim - the color of a fully mature Burgundy. The nose is classic cool-vintage Morey-Saint-Denis: dried dark cherry and forest floor lead over dried rose petal and a note of tobacco and earth. The palate is medium-weight with a bright, defining acidity that gives the wine unexpected structure for its age. The leaner tannin frame of the 2004 has resolved cleanly, leaving a wine of refined, austere charm rather than volume or power. The finish carries length and mineral persistence, the signature of the Clos de Tart monopole's unique limestone and schist terroir. Drink now while complexity remains.
About Mommessin
Mommessin held the Clos de Tart monopole for decades before the estate was acquired by Francois Pinault's Artemis Domaines in 2017. During the Mommessin era, the 7.5-hectare Grand Cru monopole was vinified as a single-vineyard Morey-Saint-Denis with an emphasis on preserving the site's distinctive mineral character. Clos de Tart is unique among Morey-Saint-Denis Grand Crus for its walled monopole status - the entire production comes from this single enclosed vineyard - and its unusual terroir of limestone and schist that gives the wine a distinctive mineral backbone rarely found in neighboring appellations.
Food Pairings
Roasted duck leg with fig reduction
The wine's dried cherry, forest floor, and tobacco character align with the gamey richness of duck; the fig reduction mirrors the wine's dried fruit tertiary notes while the wine's acid keeps the pairing alive.
Mushroom and lentil stew with Comté shavings
The wine's earthy, mineral depth and lean acidity find a natural match in the umami richness of mushroom and lentil; the Comté adds the slight richness that the wine's lighter frame needs in a pairing.
Aged Époisses with crusty bread
The wine's dried rose petal, tobacco, and mineral character pair classically with the pungent, creamy intensity of Époisses; the pairing is quintessentially Burgundian.
Service & Cellaring
- Serving Temp
- 60-63°F (16-17°C)
- Decanting
- In 2026, the 2004 Clos de Tart benefits from only 20-30 minutes of gentle aeration. This is a mature wine moving past its peak; over-decanting risks accelerating the oxidation that will eventually bring it to decline. Serve into a generous Burgundy glass and allow it to open gradually.
- Cellar Storage
- 55°F (13°C), 65-70% humidity, bottle on its side.
Frequently Asked
Should I still be drinking the 2004 Mommessin Clos de Tart in 2026?
Yes, but with urgency. The wine is past its projected peak of 2018-2025 and is now in its mature phase: complex, tertiary, and still structured, but on a declining arc. The hard decline is estimated around 2030. Those with bottles should prioritize drinking over the next one to two years to catch the wine at its most expressive.
What is Clos de Tart, and what makes it unique?
Clos de Tart is a 7.5-hectare Grand Cru monopole in Morey-Saint-Denis — meaning the entire vineyard is owned by a single producer. It is one of only four Grand Cru monopoles in Burgundy. The site's terroir of limestone and schist subsoil gives the wine a distinctive mineral backbone and cooler-toned character compared to neighboring Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Crus.
How long should I decant the 2004 Clos de Tart?
Keep it brief — 20-30 minutes of gentle aeration is sufficient. This is a mature wine past its peak window, and extended decanting risks losing what remains of the fragrant tertiary character. Pour into a large Burgundy glass and let it open gradually over the first 20 minutes of drinking.
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