Mommessin

Clos de Tart Grand Cru

Clos de Tart Grand Cru, Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France

2004

Vintage

Varietal

Pinot Noir

ABV

Peak 2018-2025

Where it is, June 2026

Mature: past peak but still drinking well through 2030.

In 2026, the 2004 Mommessin Clos de Tart is past its projected peak window of 2018-2025 and moving toward its eventual hard decline in 2030. At twenty-two years from harvest, the wine is in mature drinking territory: primary fruit has given way almost entirely to tertiary development - forest floor, dried cherry, dried rose petal, tobacco - and the bright acidity of the cooler 2004 vintage continues to keep the wine alive and structured. The leaner frame and brisk acid noted at release have proven beneficial in this mature phase, providing definition where a richer vintage might have collapsed. Those with bottles should drink over the next two to three years to catch the wine at its most complex before it begins to simplify.

Related vintages

The ‘04 Clos de Tart Grand Cru.

Mommessin's 2004 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a gracefully evolved Morey-Saint-Denis monopole - past its projected peak in 2026, but offering genuine Grand Cru complexity for those who move soon.

Drinking window

The arcYou are here · mature, 2026

Tasting note

A luminous, translucent garnet with a brick-orange rim - the color of a fully mature Burgundy. The nose is classic cool-vintage Morey-Saint-Denis: dried dark cherry and forest floor lead over dried rose petal and a note of tobacco and earth. The palate is medium-weight with a bright, defining acidity that gives the wine unexpected structure for its age. The leaner tannin frame of the 2004 has resolved cleanly, leaving a wine of refined, austere charm rather than volume or power. The finish carries length and mineral persistence, the signature of the Clos de Tart monopole's unique limestone and schist terroir. Drink now while complexity remains.

The 2004 vintage

The 2004 Côte de Nuits growing season was complicated by difficult conditions: spring frosts, summer hail in some sectors, and uneven ripening gave winemakers an anxious growing season. Wine Spectator awarded the Côte de Nuits a Very Good 88, noting that "the best wines are elegant, pure and balanced, despite difficult growing conditions." At Clos de Tart, the monopole's single-site discipline and old vine holdings on a unique mix of limestone and schist subsoil provided some insulation from the broader vintage inconsistency. The resulting wine is leaner and more acidic than the richer years surrounding it - drier than 2005, tighter than 2003 - but those structural qualities have proven beneficial as the wine has matured.

About Mommessin

Mommessin held the Clos de Tart monopole for decades before the estate was acquired by Francois Pinault's Artemis Domaines in 2017. During the Mommessin era, the 7.5-hectare Grand Cru monopole was vinified as a single-vineyard Morey-Saint-Denis with an emphasis on preserving the site's distinctive mineral character. Clos de Tart is unique among Morey-Saint-Denis Grand Crus for its walled monopole status - the entire production comes from this single enclosed vineyard - and its unusual terroir of limestone and schist that gives the wine a distinctive mineral backbone rarely found in neighboring appellations.

From the cellar: pair with

Roasted duck leg with fig reduction

The wine's dried cherry, forest floor, and tobacco character align with the gamey richness of duck; the fig reduction mirrors the wine's dried fruit tertiary notes while the wine's acid keeps the pairing alive.

Mushroom and lentil stew with Comté shavings

The wine's earthy, mineral depth and lean acidity find a natural match in the umami richness of mushroom and lentil; the Comté adds the slight richness that the wine's lighter frame needs in a pairing.

Aged Époisses with crusty bread

The wine's dried rose petal, tobacco, and mineral character pair classically with the pungent, creamy intensity of Époisses; the pairing is quintessentially Burgundian.

Service & cellaring

Serving Temp: 60-63°F (16-17°C)
Decanting: In 2026, the 2004 Clos de Tart benefits from only 20-30 minutes of gentle aeration. This is a mature wine moving past its peak; over-decanting risks accelerating the oxidation that will eventually bring it to decline. Serve into a generous Burgundy glass and allow it to open gradually.
Cellar Storage: 55°F (13°C), 65-70% humidity, bottle on its side.

Track this bottle Read the Clos de Tart Grand Cru, Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France guide

The drinking window on this bottle is calculated with the Cellared Ageability Index (CAI) v1.0, a 10-factor model. Try the free drinking window calculator on any wine, or read when to drink wine for the practical signals.

More from Clos de Tart Grand Cru, Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France

Frequently Asked

Should I still be drinking the 2004 Mommessin Clos de Tart in 2026?

Yes, but with urgency. The wine is past its projected peak of 2018-2025 and is now in its mature phase: complex, tertiary, and still structured, but on a declining arc. The hard decline is estimated around 2030. Those with bottles should prioritize drinking over the next one to two years to catch the wine at its most expressive.

What is Clos de Tart, and what makes it unique?

Clos de Tart is a 7.5-hectare Grand Cru monopole in Morey-Saint-Denis — meaning the entire vineyard is owned by a single producer. It is one of only four Grand Cru monopoles in Burgundy. The site's terroir of limestone and schist subsoil gives the wine a distinctive mineral backbone and cooler-toned character compared to neighboring Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Crus.

How did the 2004 Burgundy vintage affect Clos de Tart?

The 2004 Côte de Nuits was a demanding year, with spring frost and uneven ripening across many sites. Wine Spectator rated it Very Good 88, acknowledging difficult conditions. Clos de Tart's monopole discipline provided some buffer, and the resulting wine is leaner and more acid-driven than nearby vintages — qualities that have proven beneficial as the wine has matured gracefully over two decades.

How long should I decant the 2004 Clos de Tart?

Keep it brief — 20-30 minutes of gentle aeration is sufficient. This is a mature wine past its peak window, and extended decanting risks losing what remains of the fragrant tertiary character. Pour into a large Burgundy glass and let it open gradually over the first 20 minutes of drinking.