Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, France · France
2017 Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
Groffier's 2017 Bonnes-Mares entered its drinking window in 2024 - a fresh, precise Grand Cru from a balanced Cote de Nuits vintage that delivers genuine character and the structure to develop through 2040.
- Varietal
- Pinot Noir
- ABV
- 13.0%
- Vintage
- 2017
Drinking Window
In 2026: Approaching PeakDrinkable, but best years are ahead. Peak begins 2028.
Right now: In 2026, the Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 is in its drinking window, having opened its cellar phase in 2024 and now sitting in a pre-peak position that rewards both near-term drinking and medium-term patience. The Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, which spans the boundary between Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis, naturally produces wines of greater body and tannin weight than village Chambolle - and in 2026, those structural elements have integrated sufficiently for both near-term pleasure and clear further development through 2028 to 2035. A one-to-two-hour decant in 2026 opens the aromatics and softens the tannin structure before service.
About Robert Groffier
Robert Groffier Pere et Fils has been based in Morey-Saint-Denis for decades, farming Grand Cru and Premier Cru parcels across Chambolle-Musigny, Bonnes-Mares, and adjacent appellations. The domaine's winemaking approach is characterized by long cuvaison - extended maceration during fermentation to extract full phenolic and aromatic complexity from the grape skins - combined with aging in a mix of new and used Burgundian oak barrels sized to support but not mask individual terroir expression. In Bonnes-Mares, Groffier farms parcels on both the Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis sides of this Grand Cru, which straddles the appellation boundary; the Chambolle portion contributes aromatic delicacy and precision, while the Morey side delivers structural weight and mineral depth. The blend of both sides produces a Bonnes-Mares of completeness - floral character from the Chambolle parcels, firmness and mineral depth from the Morey parcels. The house style across all appellations favors balance and completeness over immediately striking extraction: wines built to reveal themselves at the table rather than in a tasting note. See also the [Dujac Clos de la Roche 2019](/wines/domaine-dujac/clos-de-la-roche-grand-cru/2019) for another Morey Grand Cru interpretation.
Food Pairings
Grilled rack of lamb with herbes de Provence
Firm tannins (level 7) and body (level 7) hold up to lamb's richness; moderate acidity (level 6) complements the charred, herbal flavors without cutting through them, matching the Grand Cru's structural authority.
Duck breast with cherry compote
Dark cherry and plum character aligns with cherry sauce; structured tannins (level 7) provide backbone through duck fat in a pairing where the wine's body matches the richness without dominating the fruit-forward compote.
Aged Comte or Gruyere
Body (level 7) and firm tannins handle aged cheese fat; the iron-mineral note from the Bonnes-Mares terroir echoes the crystalline, nutty character of 24-month Comte.
Service & Cellaring
- Serving Temp
- 60-64F (15-17C)
- Decanting
- Decant one to two hours in 2026. The 2017 vintage's freshness makes this Bonnes-Mares more approachable than typical for a Grand Cru, but firm tannins (level 7) benefit from air time to soften before service. Post-2028 approaching peak, one hour will suffice as the wine opens more readily with age.
- Cellar Storage
- 55F (13C), 60-70% humidity, bottle on its side.
Frequently Asked
When is the ideal time to drink the 2017 Groffier Bonnes-Mares?
The wine entered its window in 2024 and reaches peak 2028-2040. In 2026 it is in early-to-mid window and rewarding with a one-to-two-hour decant - the 2017 vintage's freshness works in its favor for near-term drinking. Holding through 2030 will yield greater tertiary complexity and full integration of the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru character. No urgency - this is a wine that drinks well across a wide window.
How does Bonnes-Mares differ from village Chambolle-Musigny?
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru straddles the boundary between Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis, and the terroir reflects both appellations. The Chambolle side contributes aromatic delicacy and floral precision; the Morey side delivers structural weight, firmness, and iron-mineral depth. The result is a Grand Cru of more body and tannin weight (level 7) than village Chambolle, but with an aromatic finesse that Morey-Saint-Denis village wines rarely show.
What food pairs best with this Bonnes-Mares?
Grilled lamb, duck breast with fruit-based sauces, or aged hard cheeses. The 2017's firm tannins (level 7) and full body (level 7) work best alongside food with substance. The vintage's natural freshness makes it more versatile than a denser, heavier year - it handles both the table and standalone drinking better than 2015 or 2016 Bonnes-Mares from the same producer.
How long should I decant this Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru?
One to two hours in 2026. Start with one hour and assess - if still firm, give it the second hour. From 2028 onward, one hour will be sufficient as the wine becomes more immediately expressive.
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