Robert Groffier

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, France

2017

Vintage

Varietal

Pinot Noir

ABV

13.0%

Peak 2028-2040

Where it is, June 2026

Approaching Peak: drinkable, but best years are ahead.

In 2026, the Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 is in its drinking window, having opened its cellar phase in 2024 and now sitting in a pre-peak position that rewards both near-term drinking and medium-term patience. The 2017 Burgundy Cote de Nuits vintage produced wines of balance and purity - the Wine Spectator rated the appellation 94 points with a character of 'balanced, fresh and approachable wines with purity; the best have the structure to age 20 years.' That approachability is evident in the 2026 Groffier Bonnes-Mares: the wine is fresher and more immediately accessible than a similarly aged 2016 or 2015 would be, the fruit vivid, the tannins (level 7) firm but well-defined rather than austere. The Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, which spans the boundary between Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis, naturally produces wines of greater body and tannin weight than village Chambolle - and in 2026, those structural elements have integrated sufficiently for both near-term pleasure and clear further development through 2028 to 2035. A one-to-two-hour decant in 2026 opens the aromatics and softens the tannin structure before service.

Related vintages

The ‘17 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru.

Groffier's 2017 Bonnes-Mares entered its drinking window in 2024 - a fresh, precise Grand Cru from a balanced Cote de Nuits vintage that delivers genuine character and the structure to develop through 2040.

Drinking window

The arcYou are here · approaching peak, 2026

Tasting note

The 2017 Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru pours a vivid medium ruby with a precise, youthful rim - the color bright and transparent, characteristic of the 2017 vintage's natural freshness. On the nose, the wine opens with the purity that defines the 2017 Cote de Nuits: dark cherry, ripe plum, dried rose, and an earthy mineral note that signals the Bonnes-Mares terroir rather than the more delicate floral register of village Chambolle. The ground-truth notes confirm: dark cherry, plum, dried rose, and an earthy mineral note, with medium-full body and well-defined tannins delivering a clean, focused finish. The 2017 vintage's fresh, approachable character (WS 94, 'balanced, fresh and approachable with purity') is evident on the nose and palate - this is not a dense, extracted Bonnes-Mares but one of precision and freshness. On the palate, the tannins (level 7) are firm and well-defined, marking the Grand Cru's greater weight compared to premier cru Chambolle, but they are ripe and even rather than coarse. Acidity (level 6) is moderate, allowing the body (level 7) and fruit to lead. The finish is clean and focused with good length. A characterful, honest Bonnes-Mares expressing the 2017 vintage's balance.

The 2017 vintage

The 2017 Burgundy vintage was a season of welcome abundance after the catastrophic frost-driven yields of 2016 - a good crop in quantity combined with balanced quality that produced wines of freshness, purity, and charm across the Cote de Nuits. The Wine Spectator rated the 2017 Cote de Nuits 94 points with a character of 'balanced, fresh and approachable wines with purity; the best have the structure to age 20 years' - a descriptor that captures both the vintage's immediate appeal and its underlying structural integrity. Growing conditions in the Cote de Nuits unfolded without the extreme frost events that had decimated yields in 2016, allowing a more complete ripening cycle from budbreak through harvest. The harvest came in under favorable conditions with fruit showing natural freshness and aromatic precision. In Chambolle-Musigny and on the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, the 2017's purity allowed the terroir's earthy mineral character to show clearly through the ripe fruit - producing wines of balance rather than power. Bonnes-Mares, spanning the Chambolle and Morey boundary, found the vintage's freshness a natural match for its inherently structured character. See the full [Burgundy Grand Cru guide](/wines/region/burgundy) and [Pinot Noir aging windows](/wines/varietal/pinot-noir).

About Robert Groffier

Robert Groffier Pere et Fils has been based in Morey-Saint-Denis for decades, farming Grand Cru and Premier Cru parcels across Chambolle-Musigny, Bonnes-Mares, and adjacent appellations. The domaine's winemaking approach is characterized by long cuvaison - extended maceration during fermentation to extract full phenolic and aromatic complexity from the grape skins - combined with aging in a mix of new and used Burgundian oak barrels sized to support but not mask individual terroir expression. In Bonnes-Mares, Groffier farms parcels on both the Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis sides of this Grand Cru, which straddles the appellation boundary; the Chambolle portion contributes aromatic delicacy and precision, while the Morey side delivers structural weight and mineral depth. The blend of both sides produces a Bonnes-Mares of completeness - floral character from the Chambolle parcels, firmness and mineral depth from the Morey parcels. The house style across all appellations favors balance and completeness over immediately striking extraction: wines built to reveal themselves at the table rather than in a tasting note. See also the [Dujac Clos de la Roche 2019](/wines/domaine-dujac/clos-de-la-roche-grand-cru/2019) for another Morey Grand Cru interpretation.

From the cellar: pair with

Grilled rack of lamb with herbes de Provence

Firm tannins (level 7) and body (level 7) hold up to lamb's richness; moderate acidity (level 6) complements the charred, herbal flavors without cutting through them, matching the Grand Cru's structural authority.

Duck breast with cherry compote

Dark cherry and plum character aligns with cherry sauce; structured tannins (level 7) provide backbone through duck fat in a pairing where the wine's body matches the richness without dominating the fruit-forward compote.

Aged Comte or Gruyere

Body (level 7) and firm tannins handle aged cheese fat; the iron-mineral note from the Bonnes-Mares terroir echoes the crystalline, nutty character of 24-month Comte.

Service & cellaring

Serving Temp: 60-64F (15-17C)
Decanting: Decant one to two hours in 2026. The 2017 vintage's freshness makes this Bonnes-Mares more approachable than typical for a Grand Cru, but firm tannins (level 7) benefit from air time to soften before service. Post-2028 approaching peak, one hour will suffice as the wine opens more readily with age.
Cellar Storage: 55F (13C), 60-70% humidity, bottle on its side.

Track this bottle Read the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, France guide

The drinking window on this bottle is calculated with the Cellared Ageability Index (CAI) v1.0, a 10-factor model. Try the free drinking window calculator on any wine, or read when to drink wine for the practical signals.

Frequently Asked

When is the ideal time to drink the 2017 Groffier Bonnes-Mares?

The wine entered its window in 2024 and reaches peak 2028-2040. In 2026 it is in early-to-mid window and rewarding with a one-to-two-hour decant - the 2017 vintage's freshness works in its favor for near-term drinking. Holding through 2030 will yield greater tertiary complexity and full integration of the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru character. No urgency - this is a wine that drinks well across a wide window.

How does Bonnes-Mares differ from village Chambolle-Musigny?

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru straddles the boundary between Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis, and the terroir reflects both appellations. The Chambolle side contributes aromatic delicacy and floral precision; the Morey side delivers structural weight, firmness, and iron-mineral depth. The result is a Grand Cru of more body and tannin weight (level 7) than village Chambolle, but with an aromatic finesse that Morey-Saint-Denis village wines rarely show.

What food pairs best with this Bonnes-Mares?

Grilled lamb, duck breast with fruit-based sauces, or aged hard cheeses. The 2017's firm tannins (level 7) and full body (level 7) work best alongside food with substance. The vintage's natural freshness makes it more versatile than a denser, heavier year - it handles both the table and standalone drinking better than 2015 or 2016 Bonnes-Mares from the same producer.

How long should I decant this Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru?

One to two hours in 2026. The 2017 vintage produced more approachable wines than 2016 or 2015, but the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru's inherent tannin structure (level 7) still requires aeration before service. Start with one hour and assess - if still firm, give it the second hour. From 2028 onward, one hour will be sufficient as the wine becomes more immediately expressive.