Robert Groffier
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
2020
Vintage
Varietal
Pinot Noir
ABV
Where it is, July 2026
At Peak: in the heart of its drinking window (2023-2042).
In 2026, the Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2020 is four years into its peak drinking window, sitting in the early-to-mid stage of an arc that extends through 2042. The 2020 Burgundy vintage is delivering as promised: early harvests brought power and immediate gratification, but the finest sites with natural drainage and vine balance have layered in freshness and purity that sustain the wine well into its peak. The slightly tertiary black fruit character already present at early tastings has deepened toward tobacco and limestone complexity while retaining the silky acidity that defines this particular bottling. In 2026, this wine requires no further cellaring to express itself fully. A brief decant is all it needs. Those holding multiple bottles can open with confidence through the mid-2030s with equal satisfaction. Explore the [Burgundy collection](/wines/region/burgundy) or browse by [Pinot Noir](/wines/varietal/pinot-noir). Compare this to Robert Groffier's [Chambertin-Clos de Beze 2019](/wines/robert-groffier/chambertin-clos-de-beze-grand-cru/2019) for a look at how the domaine interprets Gevrey's power versus Chambolle's refinement.
Related vintages
- 2017Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France · Peak 2020-2041
- 2020Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
Flagey-Echezeaux · Peak 2023-2042
- 2019Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France · Peak 2022-2041
- 2019Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Vougeot, Burgundy, France · Peak 2022-2041
- 2017Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France · Peak 2020-2039
The ‘20 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru.
Possibly the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares Nicolas Groffier has produced, the 2020 balances tobacco, crushed limestone, and filigree tannins in a silky, poised expression of this powerful grand cru.
Drinking window
Tasting note
In the glass, the 2020 Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru presents a luminous, translucent ruby-garnet that belies the vintage's early harvest character. The nose opens with slightly evolved black fruit, a nuanced tobacco note, and a pronounced crushed limestone minerality with an almost flinty quality that speaks to the grand cru's position straddling Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis. With air, dried rose and cedar edge emerge. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, defined by filigree tannins that are fine-grained and structuring without weighing, providing a framework of exceptional delicacy. Poised, bright acidity runs the full length of the palate before a long, mineral-laced finish of silky precision. This is a Bonnes-Mares that foregoes the appellation's typical power in favor of a refinement rarely achieved at this address.
The 2020 vintage
The 2020 Burgundy vintage earned a 96-point Classic rating from Wine Spectator, noted for an early harvest that yielded big, powerful reds delivering immediate gratification, with the best being fresh and balanced. The season was defined by drought-influenced summer conditions, with harvest beginning in mid-August, several weeks ahead of the historic average. At Bonnes-Mares, the grand cru's distinctive mosaic of Jurassic limestone and brown clay soils moderated the drought's concentration effect, producing wines with genuine depth but without the over-ripeness that affected some valley-floor sites. The result at Groffier, based on the Chambolle-Musigny side of the appellation where soils shift toward the more delicate white marl that produces the grand cru's most elegant expressions, is a 2020 of unusual refinement for the vintage.
About Robert Groffier
Robert Groffier Pere et Fils is a small family domaine based in Morey-Saint-Denis, farming just over seven hectares of prized Burgundy sites including two parcels of Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru. Nicolas Groffier, who took over day-to-day vineyard and cellar management from his father Serge in the early 2000s, has refined the domaine's style toward greater precision and restraint: less new oak, earlier picking dates to preserve acidity, and a focus on expressing individual parcels rather than blending to a house style. At Bonnes-Mares, the domaine works both the Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis sides of the appellation, giving Nicolas Groffier a complete picture of the grand cru's range from floral elegance to structured power.
From the cellar: pair with
Roasted Squab with Wild Mushrooms
The wine's tobacco and crushed limestone minerality harmonize with the earthy, gamey depth of squab, while filigree tannins provide structure without overpowering the bird's delicate flesh.
Duck Rillettes with Cornichons
The Bonnes-Mares' slightly evolved black fruit and tobacco character bridges beautifully with the rich fat of rillettes, while the wine's poised acidity cuts through and refreshes the palate.
Aged Comte with Honeycomb
The wine's limestone minerality and silky mid-palate find elegant counterbalance in the crystalline texture of aged Comte, with honeycomb sweetness amplifying the wine's subtle dried-fruit undertones.
Service & cellaring
- Serving Temp
- 59-62F (15-17C)
- Decanting
- Decant 45 to 60 minutes in 2026. The 2020 is showing well with modest aeration, and the filigree tannin structure does not need extended breathing. Avoid more than 90 minutes of air, which risks flattening the wine's characteristic poised acidity.
- Cellar Storage
- 55F (13C), 60-70% humidity, bottle on its side.
The drinking window on this bottle is calculated with the Cellared Ageability Index (CAI) v1.0, a 10-factor model. Try the free drinking window calculator on any wine, or read when to drink wine for the practical signals.
More from Chambolle-Musigny
Frequently Asked
When is the best time to drink the Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares 2020?
The 2020 Groffier Bonnes-Mares entered its peak drinking window in 2023 and will remain there through 2042. In 2026, it is four years into that peak and drinking beautifully, with the slightly evolved black fruit and tobacco character offering genuine complexity without requiring further cellaring. Those who enjoy early-peak Burgundy at its most expressive can open now. Those looking for further structural integration can hold through the mid-2030s with confidence, as the wine's natural acidity and limestone minerality will sustain it well.
How long should I decant the Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares 2020?
Plan on 45 to 60 minutes of decanting. The 2020 Bonnes-Mares is notable for its filigree, delicate tannin structure, which means it does not require aggressive aeration to open. A gentle pour into a wide-bowled decanter and 45 to 60 minutes of rest will open the nose's limestone and tobacco complexity without risking the poised acidity that defines the wine's character. Avoid more than 90 minutes, which can cause the wine to lose the very freshness that makes this bottling distinctive among Bonnes-Mares expressions.
What makes this Bonnes-Mares stand out from other producers?
The source tasting note describes this 2020 as possibly the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares from Nicolas Groffier, which is notable given the appellation's reputation for power. While Bonnes-Mares typically expresses through the full-bodied, structured character of the Morey-Saint-Denis side, Groffier's parcels on the Chambolle-Musigny side of the appellation, with their lighter white marl soils, produce a version of the grand cru that prioritizes precision and filigree texture over sheer weight. That is precisely what makes this 2020 exceptional.
What foods pair best with the Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares 2020?
The 2020 Groffier Bonnes-Mares pairs beautifully with game birds, particularly squab or guinea fowl with wild mushroom preparations, which mirror the wine's tobacco and earthy mineral character. The wine's medium body and filigree tannins also make it a strong match for duck preparations, including rillettes or magret, where the wine's acidity cuts through the fat without dominating. Aged hard cheeses, particularly Comte or aged Gouda, round out the wine's range for cheese service.
Are there other Robert Groffier wines to explore?
Robert Groffier Pere et Fils produces a focused range of wines from premium Burgundy appellations, including a Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2019 published on this site. The domaine's Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru and Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru bottles represent a different price tier but show the same commitment to precision and terroir fidelity. For a full view of how Bonnes-Mares expresses across producers, the Burgundy collection includes pages from Drouhin and other estates with holdings in this grand cru.